If you’re planning a trip around the North Coast 500, you will undoubtedly find suggestions to visit John O’Groats and to get your photo with the infamous lamppost (which is widely but incorrectly thought of as the most northerly point on the UK mainland!) but there is so much more to enjoy. Our guide to some of Caithness’s hidden gems will give you a fantastic insight into some of the natural beauty and heritage you can experience in Caithness!
Our top tip is to talk to the locals and ask them where their favourite places are – we’re a friendly bunch and happy to share our local favourites with people who want to uncover the best in the area!
Harbours
Caithness has a bounty of harbours which in their 19th century heyday, were bustling hubs for the fishing industry. To find these hidden gems as you drive on the A99 north, it’s worth taking the time to turn off the main road and enjoy a calm and quiet visit to one of them. Our pick of east coast harbours is at Lybster, 14 miles south of Wick. As you drive down the main road of Lybster, take a moment to notice how wide the street is – even with cars triple parked at the village shop, there is still plenty of space to pass by!
Turning right near the coast end of the street, the road winds down to Lybster’s stunning harbour. You could walk down this road, if you are prepared to walk up the hill on the return!
The once busy harbour is now home to a few fishing boats, a stony beach perfect for beach-combing and a local favourite for outdoor swimming at high tide, and the newly reopened Waterlines. The delicious locally caught crab rolls served up at the wee cafe are infamous, and there’s some fascinating exhibits in the museum upstairs which tell the story of the fishing industry in Lybster. There’s something for all the family – even a dressing up box for the young (and young at heart)!
Venturing along the north coast of Caithness, and just a five minute drive from our lodges is Harrow Harbour, another of our hidden gems. It’s a secluded harbour with beautiful views across the Pentland Firth, towards Orkney. As well as an ideal picnic spot, it’s a popular place for seals, so take care not to disturb them during your visit. Harrow Harbour is just around the corner from the Castle and Gardens of Mey which was the late Queen Mother’s summer residence, but a lesser known claim to fame is that in 1979, the newly rebuilt harbour was opened by Jimmy Page from Led Zeppelin!
Coastal Walks and Viewpoint Hidden Gems
Due to its undulating landscape, Caithness is not an area of Scotland with lots of mountainous walks, but there are lots of hidden gems in coastal walks and viewpoints to enjoy.
At John O’Groats, there is an all access path suitable for walkers, cyclists, wheelchairs and pushchairs which leads west from the famous lamppost as far as the John O’Groats Mill (under refurbishment and due to reopen in 2025). From here on a clear day you can see stunning views of Stroma – a now uninhabited island in the Pentland Firth. It’s worth taking a set of binoculars to take a closer look at the building ruins. There’s also a Royal connection here; in the past King Charles has made several trips to Stroma and has painted watercolour artworks of his visits. It’s not a long walk; allow 30 minutes for a return trip.
Moving east from the John O’Groats lamppost which is also the start and finish point of the John O’Groats Trail; to start with the all access path continues, and soon gives way to fields alongside the beaches. Look for the elusive ‘Groatie Buckies’ – tiny cowrie shells which are said to bring good luck to the finder. Even more elusive are the engravings of Nobel Prize poet Pablo Neruda’s XVII Sonnet on the red sandstone reefs in the Bay of Sannick, only visible at low tide for around an hour per day – so time your visit well and be prepared to search! Continue your walk from Sannick to Duncansby Lighthouse or the more famous Duncansby Stacks, which were once part of the land but now rise out of the water akin to pyramids.
Moving to the real most northerly point of the UK Mainland, Dunnet Head has a clifftop viewpoint which is an incredible place for viewing nesting seabirds in the spring and summer.
You can also walk up the hill away from the lighthouse for a few minutes to reach a 360 degree viewpoint across land and sea.
On the east coast, the Fairy Glen walk at Latheronwheel is a real family favourite. Park down at the harbour and walk inland, past a bridge that would not look out of place in Lord of the Rings, and into a small glen. In this short walk you’ll spot lots of fairy doors and magical fairy habitats which will spark imagination into young and old alike! Once deep into the glen there is an uphill path which climbs above the trees and out back along to the coast, where you get wonderful views of the harbour below.
History and Heritage Hidden Gems
Caithness is jam packed with fascinating history and heritage – from Neolithic monuments, to Thomas Telford designed towns, crofting life from days gone by and more recent historic developments, you’ll find it all!
Our top tip: Please check opening days and times before you visit as many of the sites are seasonal.
The Grey Cairns of Camster are inland, on the edge of the Flow Country, and are quite a sight to behold. A short boardwalk path winds down from the Lybster – Watten road (limited layby parking available) to two neolithic tombs, around 5000 years old! There are useful information boards that provide insight into the purpose of these monuments, amidst the quiet setting.
The Wick Heritage Centre (open April-October and special seasonal openings) is a tardis of a museum, hosting thousands of donated exhibits detailing aspects of life in Caithness. There’s also a display of some of the Johnstone Collection photographs – a family of photographers capturing portraits and the local area. Allow up to half a day to explore the rooms and outbuildings, and for keen local volunteers, many with connections to the exhibits, to share their stories with you!
For an intimate portrait of 150 years of crofting life, visit Mary Ann’s Cottage, in Dunnet. A cottage that was a life-long home for Mary Ann Calder up until 1993 has been preserved, complete with original furniture and artefacts. Volunteers take visitors on fascinating guided tours around the cottage, which feels far-removed from the realities of modern day life.
For an insight into more recent history developments, the North Coast Visitor Centre houses a museum set across three floors. You can stand up next to Pictish Stones, learn about Caithness’s nuclear energy heritage in the Dounreay exhibition, and see the incredible collection of exhibits amassed by botanist Robert Dick Don’t miss the rolling film on the top floor which shows the stunning landscapes of Caithness throughout the year.
The Halkirk Heritage & Vintage Motor Centre is a treasure trove for motoring fans, with a collection of cars, motorbikes, tractors and other machinery to look at, in what was the old School. There are also annual exhibitions, heritage and reading rooms with other exhibits showing a bygone era of Caithness life.
When you stay with us at Celtic Lodges, we are happy to share more of our local knowledge and tips so that you can enjoy our hidden gems!
