Wick: A Highland Haven For History, Herring, and Highland Hospitality
Nestled on Scotland’s rugged northeast coast, where the wild North Sea meets the tranquil River Wick, lies the historic town of Wick. For centuries, this unassuming burgh has carved out a fascinating existence, deeply intertwined with the sea, earning its place on the map as a former powerhouse of the herring industry and a welcoming stop on the iconic North Coast 500 route. With a population hovering around 6,870 (as of 2020), Wick offers a unique blend of rich history, dramatic coastal scenery, and genuine Highland charm.
A Glimpse into Wick’s Storied Past
The story of Wick stretches back to the Vikings, who gave the town its name, “Vik,” meaning “bay” in Old Norse. First documented in 1140, its strategic position at the mouth of the river and bay quickly established it as a significant trading port. This growing importance was officially recognised in 1589 when Wick was granted Royal Burgh status.
However, it was the 19th century that truly saw Wick explode onto the global stage. The town became a pivotal hub in the flourishing herring industry, at one point earning the impressive title of the busiest herring port in Europe. Imagine the bustling harbour, teeming with over a thousand fishing boats, the air thick with the scent of salt and fish, and the vibrant energy of thousands of people involved in every aspect of the trade – from fishermen to curers, coopers to net-makers.
The town’s expansion during this period was so significant that a new, planned suburb, Pulteneytown, was laid out in 1808, thanks to the vision of renowned engineer Thomas Telford. Pulteneytown, originally a separate settlement until it merged with Wick in 1902, is considered one of Scotland’s earliest planned industrial areas and is now protected as a conservation area. You can still explore its historic streets and harbour today, uncovering the echoes of its industrial past.
While the herring industry has since declined, Wick has adapted, diversifying into whitefish industries and light manufacturing. The town’s rich past is meticulously preserved and celebrated, particularly at the award-winning Wick Heritage Centre.
Must-See Sights and Sounds in Wick
Wick and its surrounding area are brimming with attractions that cater to history buffs, nature lovers, and anyone seeking an authentic Scottish experience.
1. Wick Heritage Centre: This is undoubtedly the jewel in Wick’s crown for anyone wanting to truly understand the town’s captivating history. Located in the heart of historic Pulteneytown, the centre offers a deep dive into Wick’s role as a major herring port. Explore fascinating exhibits, vintage photographs from the extensive Johnston Collection (documenting Wick life from 1863-1975), and recreated period rooms, including a traditional cooper’s workshop. It’s a vivid testament to the industry that shaped the town and the resilience of its people.
2. Old Pulteney Distillery: For whisky aficionados, a distillery tour to the Old Pulteney Distillery is an absolute must. Established in 1826, this is one of Scotland’s most northerly distilleries, famed for its “Old Pulteney” single malt. Known for its distinct maritime character, a tour here offers insights into the whisky-making process, the chance to see the iconic copper pot stills, and of course, a delightful tasting session. It’s a taste of the sea in a dram.
3. Castle of Old Wick (The Old Man of Wick): Perched dramatically on a narrow, windswept promontory south of Wick Bay, the Castle of Old Wick is one of Scotland’s oldest castles, with origins likely in the later 14th century. Its imposing four-storey tower, despite parts of its seaward side having succumbed to the elements, stands as a testament to medieval resilience. A scenic coastal walk from Wick town centre leads you to this rugged ruin, offering breathtaking views over the North Sea and fantastic opportunities for photography, especially at sunrise or sunset. The surrounding cliffs are also a haven for seabirds, making it popular with wildlife and birdwatchers.
4. Castle Sinclair Girnigoe: A few miles north of Wick, this truly dramatic ruin is a sight to behold. Considered one of Scotland’s most impressive cliffside castles, Castle Sinclair Girnigoe dates back to the 15th century and was the ancestral seat of the Sinclair Earls of Caithness. Its extensive walls seem to rise organically from the rugged rocks, clinging precariously to the edge of the cliff. Currently undergoing restoration by the Clan Sinclair Trust, it’s a powerful symbol of Scottish history and resilience against the elements. You can reach it via a rewarding clifftop walk from the tiny fishing village of Staxigoe, passing Noss Head Lighthouse along the way.
5. Ebenezer Place: For a quirky claim to fame, seek out Ebenezer Place. Certified by the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s shortest street, it measures a mere 2.06 metres (6.76 feet) long – just enough space for one doorway, belonging to the No. 1 Bistro! It’s a fun, quick photo stop that adds a touch of the extraordinary to your Wick visit.
6. Whaligoe Steps: Prepare for a truly unique and challenging experience at Whaligoe Steps, a short drive south of Wick. This incredible feat of engineering involves over 300 hand-carved stone steps descending a sheer 250-foot cliff face to a tiny, sheltered harbour. Originally created in 1793 by Captain David Brodie to facilitate the loading of herring, these steps are a poignant reminder of the incredible effort and bravery of the fisher folk. Descending (and ascending!) them offers not only a great workout but also a profound appreciation for the area’s maritime heritage and stunning coastal views.
7. Nucleus: The Nuclear and Caithness Archives: Located near Wick Airport, this impressive modern building houses both the UK’s nuclear archive and the historical archives for Caithness. It’s a fascinating place to delve into local history, with records dating back to 1469, and explore the region’s connection to the nuclear industry.
8. Pulteneytown Walking Trail: Take a self-guided stroll around the conservation area of Pulteneytown, designed by Thomas Telford. Information panels along the way provide insights into the planned industrial area and its historical significance.
Dining in Wick: A Taste of Caithness
After a day of exploring, you’ll be ready to savour the local flavours. Wick offers a range of dining options, from traditional Scottish fare to international cuisine, with a focus on fresh, local produce, especially seafood. Check out our food and drink page for whats local to Celtic Lodges.
1. No. 1 Bistro at Mackays Hotel: Located on Ebenezer Place (yes, the shortest street in the world!), No. 1 Bistro is highly recommended for its appealing ambiance, quality service, and delicious meals. They pride themselves on using local ingredients, offering everything from light lunches to hearty Scottish dishes and fresh seafood.
2. Puldagon Farm Shop and Restaurant: Just three miles outside Wick, Puldagon is a family-run farm, shop, and restaurant that has quickly become a local favourite. Housed in a beautifully converted barn, it offers stunning views of the Caithness countryside. Their menu features freshly prepared dishes, including a full Scottish breakfast, pancakes, locally caught Haddock, and their own home-reared Highland Beef Burgers. They also boast an excellent selection of barista coffees and homemade bakes.
3. Local Pubs and Cafes: Throughout Wick, you’ll find charming local pubs offering a warm welcome, a pint of local ale, and often a menu of pub classics. There are also several cafes perfect for a coffee and a scone, ideal for a relaxed break. Keep an eye out for daily specials that often highlight the fresh catch of the day.
Events and Activities
While Wick may seem like a quiet town, it has a vibrant community spirit and hosts various events throughout the year.
- Wick Gala Week: Typically held at the end of July/early August, this is a highlight of the local calendar, with community events and celebrations.
- Caithness Show: A traditional agricultural show, usually in July, offering a chance to experience rural life and local produce.
- Wick Society Talks: The Wick Heritage Centre regularly hosts talks and slideshows during the winter months, offering deeper insights into the town’s history.
- Lyth Arts Centre: Just a short drive from Wick, this arts centre offers a year-round programme of live performances and exhibitions, showcasing drama, dance, music, and art. Check their website for current listings.
Beyond the town, Wick serves as an excellent base for exploring the wider Caithness region. It’s a key stop on the North Coast 500, Scotland’s answer to Route 66, offering breathtaking scenery, dramatic cliffs, and ancient sites. Nearby attractions include the Grey Cairns of Camster (Neolithic burial chambers), the Yarrows Archaeological Trail, and the stunning Dunnet Head, the most northerly point on mainland Britain. You can also take boat trips along the coast to see the castles from a different perspective or spot local wildlife.
Wick might not be as grand as some of Scotland’s more famous tourist destinations, but its authenticity, rich heritage, and stunning natural surroundings make it a truly rewarding place to visit. It’s a town that wears its history with pride, welcoming visitors to discover its fascinating past and experience the genuine warmth of the Scottish Highlands. So, if you’re looking for a destination off the beaten path, where history comes alive and the wild beauty of the north awaits, set your sights on Wick. You won’t be disappointed.
Checkout the official tourist website for more info.
